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TROUBLESHOOTING

Anatomy of a Gaslight



  1. Finial
  2. Rainshield
  3. Burner Head
  4. Burner Tip
  5. Mantle
  6. Burner Venturi
  7. Air Adjustment
  8. Brass Control Valve (orifice in top of valve)
  9. Internal (pig tail)
  10. Post
  11. Ladder Rest
  12. Gas Supply Line
  13. Regulator (GLR607)(optional)

Gaslight Service and Trouble-Shooting tips


1. IF MANTLES NEED REPLACEMENT:

A. Make sure gas supply is turned off to the gaslight and allow light head to cool down.

B. Remove one pane of glass.

C. Remove ceramic rings from burner tips by gently lifting the ring and turning slightly until they fall.

D. Hang new rings and mantles on the light & and gently tug the fabric to unfold it.

E. Pre-burn (light) the mantles with the gas turned off and allow them to go out and cool.

F Without touching the mantles - turn on the gas and relight mantles

G. Reinsert glass pane.
See pg 39 of our catalog for a complete diagram of these steps in mantle replacement.

2. IF THE LIGHT HEAD IS NOT GETTING ANY GAS :

Make sure the gas is turned on at the source. Make sure the gas is turned on in the gaslight head. If the brass handle or screw slot on the valve (8)is vertical, valve is on, if horizontal it’s off.

A. Check for blockage in the burner. Many times if a light has been off for an extended amount of time insects will build nests or webs within the burner head(3), burner venturi(6), or burner tips(4). Check for insects which may be blocking the air adjustment holes(7) or orifice by inserting a pipe cleaner or similar flexible object into the burner tips and up from the air adjustment hole into the burner venturi.

B. For blockage of the orifice, insert a small piece of wire into the hole or better yet, remove and blow through the orifice. (8)

C. Check gas internal (pig tail)(9) for crimps in line. This usually only happens when the light is new, not on existing installations

D. If the line has been cut downstream of the regulator and water or debris has entered it, it may be necessary to blow out the line, with the lamp head uninstalled and the gas line open at both ends, blow out or pressurize the line with an air compressor. Small leaks in the line can allow moisture and dirt to enter the line and clog it which natural gas pressure alone can remove.

E. If still no gas is getting to the light, have a qualified service department check the regulator.
Note: the optional regulator works under high pressure, do not remove!

If gaslight is getting gas but wont light:

A. Refer to steps A—E above. It is possible for a light to be getting gas, but not to be ignited.

B. Adjust air mixture on burner venturi (7) to allow only 1/3 - 1/2 of the opening.

5. IF THE GASLIGHT KEEPS GOING OUT:

A. Check for gas leaks, small pockets of air getting into the line can cause the gaslight to go out.

B. Make sure burner head is secure & tight on to burner venturi.

C. Clean all bug screens, top and bottom. If the screens are covered or blocked, the light will smother itself out due to a lack of oxygen for combustion.

4. OPERATIONAL TIPS:

A. Keep sprinkler systems from spraying gas light heads. Tap water and the minerals it contains cause a mineral deposit which is very hard to clean. Sprinkler systems can also spray into the bottoms of the gas light heads causing the mantles to break, valves to freeze up and internal rusting of the post.

B. Putting a small flowerbed or rock garden around the base of the post will protect the post from weedeaters & lawnmowers bumping into the post causing the paint to chip and rust as well as breaking the mantles by shaking the lamp. Vibrations is the leading cause of premature mantle failure!

C. Before repainting a gas light head, wipe the lamp head down with a vinegar and water mixture to allow the paint to bond better to the metal.
 

 
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